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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate well-known high-end establishments. But, situated near the top among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has left the family totally astonished.

“I am utterly surprised,” states the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small place achieving such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has maintained much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, toastier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary achievement.